THICK CLOUD PREVENTS me from seeing Norfolk Island until moments before my plane touches down, when green hills and the deeper green of thousands of tall pines are revealed.

As we taxi down the runway, quickly covering a significant chunk of Norfolk’s 3500ha, we are greeted by waving locals – it’s a warm welcome that introduces me to the island’s friendly character and laid-back charm. The excitement distracts me from the fire station at the end of the runway, where fire crews display signs rating each pilot’s landing on a scale of 1 to 10, adding cheeky comments for pilots they know personally.

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